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 Care & Feeding 

·         I think that the care and feeding of guitars is really important - And I'm afraid that most players don't do it very well; ask any repair guy about the general condition of the axes they see, and most will agree, I'd bet.  So, here are some thoughts about taking proper care of any and all of your guitars.

First and foremost, when it comes to building new guitars, it's the builders' job, (When building for a specific client), to know all about the player's habits and their environment and build accordingly:  If our environment is held pretty close to yours when we build, we avoid the first potential wave of problems a guitar can be subjected to when it moves to it's new home.  When you order a guitar from a builder, they'll ask about this, but if they don't, make sure you bring it up.  Keep in mind also, if you're buying an off the rack or stock guitar, getting your new axe acclimated is up to you, so read on...


General Guidelines:

  • Always get your new guitar set up properly.  Whether you buy an off the rack or a custom, make sure it plays the way you like it before you do anything else.  It makes a huge difference!  If you have axes you've never gotten set up, do it now!  Many, many players never do this, and are playing guitars that, in the worst case, don't play well, and best case, probably don't play well for their particular style, taste, and preferences.  Even if you're just starting out playing, or bought a 'cheap' guitar, this is important.  My friends that teach insist on it for their students, so that learning guitarists are playing an axe that is as comfortable and responsive as possible.  Trust me, go right out and do this.  Once you try it, you'll love it.
  • Keep it clean! Wipe it all down, (Body and strings), after you play - Strings deteriorate faster from dirt, grime, and sweat than they do anything else.  Likewise, sweat, smoke, dirt, and grime don't do your guitar's finish and hardware any good.  If you live in a really humid place, like I do, consider coated strings - they'll last longer and sound better than non-coated stuff.  Now, as to what to clean with – Often asked, rarely heeded!  I strongly recommend you go to Stewart-MacDonald and purchase yourself some of their Preservation Polish!  This stuff is silicone free, and that’s a really good thing, both in terms of actually putting something good on the finish of your guitar, and for the consideration of future repairs – Silicone on the finish can cause a myriad of refinishing problems, and things will be bleaker yet if the stuff actually makes in to the wood of your favorite axe – Treat it right, put the good stuff on it.
  • Control the humidity and temperature your guitars work, live, and hang out in!  If and when you have to put your axes through changes, gradual should be the emphasis:  For instance, don't take it from an air conditioned house at 72 degrees and 40% humidity, and bring it straight into 95 degrees and 15% humidity, ever, and expect the poor thing to handle that well:  You wouldn't care much for that rapid change, so why would your guitars?  Remember, in a very real sense, they are living, breathing things, too.  I've seen more cracks, warping, finish problems, and playability concerns caused by extremes of temperature and humidity than I have from drops or impacts, by far.  Last but not least, never, ever leave a guitar in your car for a significant amount of time, (And especially not in the trunk), whether or not it's in a case...
  • You Get What You Pay For:  If you're just starting out playing, or starting out your kid, you don't need to go buy an expensive or custom guitar - Leave that for the time when your playing warrants or requires it!  By the same token, don't go out and buy the cheapest thing you can find, (Especially for kids - They have great ears, and will get quickly discouraged if what they hear their guitar do doesn't or can't sound like what their teachers axe will do!).  Really cheap guitars are awful; they're hard to play and terribly discouraging to new players, and they sound lousy most of the time, too.  There are plenty of decent, inexpensive guitars made by long-standing, reputable builders, like Fender, Washburn, Dean, etc.  Get one of those, with a solid top, and then immediately go get it set up professionally, as discussed above. One friend who teaches guitar and bass will send the student and parents back for a quick exchange if they show up with a nasty VallMart guitar!
  • Use a humidifier or a desiccant as needed and as directed, and as your environment dictates.  Always have one in your cases.  If you leave your guitars out of the case a lot, like I do, (On stands or hangers, etc), then get something like a Kyser Lifeguard, put it in the sound hole, and maintain it properly.  If you do leave your axes out at home, pay attention to their placement - Don't put 'em where they get direct sunlight, or too near to an HVAC vent, radiator, heater, fireplace, etc.
  • Loosen 'em or Loose it:  If you don't play for a long time, (As in, a month or longer), loosen the strings on your axe.  Don't leave 'em on there at concert pitch if you're not playing it:  Doing so, in combination with climate fluctuations, can lead to a warped neck faster than you'd like it to.
  • Be a Pro Shipper:  Whenever you have to ship a guitar, follow these simple rules to have it arrive in the same condition it left in:  Loosen the strings some - Not all the way loose, but take most of the playing tension out, (You want to leave enough to keep pegs and saddles and whatnot in place firmly...)  Ship it in a decent case, period.  Put soft padding around the headstock, inside the case, and make sure that if the guitar doesn't fit snugly, you put soft cloth or packing bubbles, etc, around the axe to make a snug, (Not tight), fit for it inside the case.  Put the case inside a decent quality box, and pad that with newspaper, packing bubbles, etc - Hit up your local guitar store for a guitar box, or a bike shop for a bike box and cut it down to size - You can also buy them from U-Haul, packing stores, etc, or you can build one, but do one of those things.  Tape the box well, tape over send to and return addresses, mark it fragile everywhere, and insure that bad dog for full value!  Don't ship when the temperature where you are, where it's going, or in between is really high - Wait!  If it's possibly gonna be really hot, and you have to ship, ship by air, not ground, even if it costs more - The temperature inside those big ol' trucks can get well above the poin that will do damage to a fine axe!  And require a signature from your shipee - I've had boxes of very expensive wood and tools left out in the rain because I didn't think to do that...
  • Buy it if you fly it:  People who travel with guitars are like motorcyclists; there are those that have crashed, and those who are gonna...  Here's the bottom line - Don't ever fly, bus, ship, or otherwise transport a guitar where somebody else is going to handle it in anything less than a top shelf case, (Preferably an A.T.A. flight rated one.)  Who's case doesn't matter so much, as long as it's a really good one.  Don't settle for anything less, ever, period.  Loosen the strings, and pad under and around the headstock - Pad additionally inside the case if you need to, so that the guitar won't shift around in there - The fit should be snug, but not tight.  Trust me; do this every time...
  • And finally, well...  How do I put this tactfully:  Friends, neighbors, guitarists - 'Know Thy Limits' - I don't have much of a clutch between my brain and mouth, so let me put this plainly:  Don't adjust or repair an axe if you don't absolutely know what you're doing. - Think of your guitar as you would a BMW automobile:  See, most folks that own BMW's don't work on them personally; they let the pros do it.  Treat your fine guitars with that level of respect, and let a pro adjust them or fix them when they need it, unless you absolutely know what you're doing.  If you want to learn how to fix guitars, buy a book, or go online, or better yet, visit a local pro and ask if they'll help you out in learning:  Go out to a garage sale, find a $5 guitar, buy it, and shred that to learn what you want to know - Just don't do it to your '63 Martin, OK?  (A very sage Luthier once said:  Always practice on scrap first!)  Honestly, I'm not looking to drum up business for me or anyone else:  It's a fact that a lot of professional repair folks get scads of business from amateurs sheepishly bringing in guitars that have had unbelievably bad 'repairs' or 'alterations' done to them:  Nothing is more heart-rending than a nice guitar butchered by somebody who doesn't have a clue, and that's a fact.  I learned the hard way about stuff I did when I wasn't as good at it as I should have been – I won’t ever make that mistake again, so don't you do it either!  Find a pro you trust, bring him or her your guitar and a six-pack of good brew and make a friend for life - You won't regret it!

 

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